Thursday 16 November 2017

How to spend a weekend and love it

PC: Saifuddin Abbas

1.    Pack your bags the night before, inform family and friends about your plans, and in the early hours of Saturday morning, drive down the N10 (Makran Coastal Highway) in Balochistan to Hingol National Park (a 260 km and 4-hour drive away from Karachi), one of the largest national parks of Pakistan. Here you will find mud volcanoes, the Kund Malir beach, Nani Mandir and the Buzi Pass.









PC: Ali Waseem
PC: Ali Waseem










      
      2.  Make a detour to the left, approximately 40 km before Hingol River. Follow the dirt track for a few kilometres to see and possibly climb the 300 foot high Chandragupt, said to be the worlds largest and highest active mud volcano. Keep a tight foothold when you climb up the steep volcano face as you can easily be blown away by the strong winds or slip if the soft mud gives way.  Go into a trance at the sight of viscous mud bubbling and oozing out of the crater in a hypnotic flow and streaming down the volcano.  Sit at the craters edge for an awe-inspiring birds eye view of the mud-crafted Hingol plains, virgin beaches and glimmering blue water. If you are lucky you may even catch a group of pilgrims perform their rituals at the crater. 

PC: Ali Waseem

3.     When you reach Hingol, use the restroom facilities and drop off your overnight luggage at the rest house/information centre/museum located a few kilometers away from Nani Mandir.  (You need to pre-book the rooms here to use the facility).  

4.     Drive down to Nani Mandir at Hinglaj. Soak in the unique rock formation. The hills look like an army of thousands of soldiers standing at attention.  

5.     At the Mandir, check out the holy relics and ceremonial objects set inside cave and spread around the area, including graffiti, figurines and vermillion string knots in trees.  

PC: Ali Waseem
PC: Ali Waseem
  
6.     Trek to the top of any of the numerous cliffs to improve your rock climbing skills.  Be careful though, as most of the terrain is solidified mud that can give way any moment.

PC: Niaz Shahmir
PC: Niaz Shahmir

PC: Saifuddin Abbas

7.     Afterwards, get a relaxing fish pedicure in the cool waters of any of the several oases that have seeped up from an underwater stream.

PC: Lauren Xavier

8.     Stop at the bridge to catch the sunset over the valley between the mountains.

PC: Niaz Shahmir
PC: Niaz Shahmir

9.     Make a stopover for a cup of chai and some daal and sabzi with hot naan at the roadside dhaba near the bridge.  


PC: Saifuddin Abbas

10.  Head back to the guesthouse and after dark climb up to the 360* viewing point to see the lights glimmering in the darkness.

11.  Set up camp under the night sky and see it raining stars so profusely that not a speck of sky can be seen.

12.  Wake up early morning to see the sun rise over the valley.

PC: Ahsan Qadir

13.  Head to a deserted beach. Sadly most of the once pristine beach strip is no more, because of irresponsible tourists. If you can find a relatively clean spot, swim in the sea, sun and sand till your heart is content.


14.  Stop at the fishing village to see boats bobbing at leisure, and sailors and seagulls waiting for the loads of fresh catch coming in.  

15.  Marvel at the diverse topography and landforms found within this small area: the Hingol River, patches of dry river bed and its estuary; the underground streams and pools; the plateaus, mountains and mud volcanoes; the date palms and sand dunes in the flat plains; the powder beaches and blue seas of Kund Malir, and the fascinating rock formations chiseled by the winds that include ‘Princess of Hope’ and the ‘Sphinx. The views from Buzi Pass are especially spectacular; every turn on the steep Pass will reveal magnificent landscapes and seascapes that will make you exclaim.  The patterns in the towering mountains showing every prehistoric layer of formation are a geological wonder.


16.  Spot any of the wide variety of resident and migratory bird, animal and fish species in Hingol National Park (home to at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds.) Keep a look out for the famous crocodiles of the Hingol River and the iconic ibex, urial and chinkara gazelle. Other animal species include leopard, fox,  hyena,  jackal,  badger, pangolin,  porcupine,   mongoose,Houbara bustard,  pelican, eagle,   vulture, owl, dolphin and giant sea turtle.

PC: Zahid Younus Habib

17.  Fill up on the deep fried tiny fish served straight out of the karhai with piping hot naan. Dont forget to sprinkle the fish liberally with lemon and chaat masala.

18.  Head back home refreshed and rejuvenated.


*You will need:
-Camping gear including tent, torch and emergency kit
-Joggers/hiking boots
-Sunblock, sunglasses and sun cap
-Garbage bags for your trash
-Enough food and water to last you the weekend, though there are small shops nearby selling bare necessities.
-Swim wear
-Your documents and ID for security checks. 
* This itinerary is subject to your time management and stamina
* Mid-October to mid-March is the best time to go. 
* DO NOT LITTER


Monday 13 November 2017

This Bag!

At Mount Royal Park

 This Bag!

I’d been looking for a long time for a one-stop bag for my travel, sport, work, social and leisure outdoor activities: camping in Balochistan; walking at Seaview; cycling around Phase 8; eating out at a dhaba on Burns Road; shopping for antiques at Itwar Bazaar; hiking up mud volcanoes; driving down to the beach; hanging out with friends for coffee; going on assignment for an interview; meeting a client or supplier at a site; and generally going out and about town. Something that could take me places, from jogging in Hilal Park to shopping at Dolmen Mall, and also look good.   

And then I found this bag! It’s by Roots of Canada, and the team or person that designed this bag either lives my kind of life, or has some link to inside my mind. Because it has exactly everything that I had wanted in a bag; an all-in-one bag that is durable, comfortable, functional and aesthetical. It’s got all the ticks on my checklist:  
  • A neutral and versatile colour and style that can go with most outfits and occasions, from sporty to street-style-casual-daytime.  The vibrant blue is neutral and yet not dull or boring.  
  • Looks good hanging by my side in photos (because tired of bleh bags photobombing my travel pics)
  • Water, stain and various gunk-proof material for roughing it out. I can wipe clean anything that does stick to it and not have to worry about treating it with kid gloves like branded bag babies.  The bag takes care of my needs and not vice versa.
  • Metal feet for gunk protection
  • A wide, comfortable, flexible crossbody strap that adjusts itself to movement and turning and twisting, an important mechanism when I am in the middle of something like cycling or climbing up a mountain and can’t use my hands to adjust the bag.
  • Carrying handles in case I want to remove or not use the adjustable shoulder strap.
  • 3 inner and 3 outer pockets for lots of storage, easy organization and quick access for those things that get lost in my bag when I need them urgently, such as lip-gloss, sunblock, cellphone, notebook, wallet, coins, keys, trail mix, wet wipes, medicine, and sunglasses.
  • Zippers for all the outside pockets and the main body so things don’t fall out when I’m rushing at the airport or pick-pocketed when I’m pre-occupied in bargaining at a flea-market.
  • Hooks on the sides for hanging any extra items like sun cap, keychain etc.
  • Big enough to hold all essential gear and accessories like cap, sunglasses, and water bottle, and small enough to not become bulky weight.

 Now when I go to Keamari for fried fish with friends, I can carry all my essentials, not have to worry about the bag and its contents if I get my fingers messy with masala or it starts raining, and still look good. This bag has got me covered.

A big Thanks to the designers at Roots! I give it a 10/10. 


Hiking at Mount Royal Park

Sunday 5 November 2017

Connecting with Contemporary Art



A gift to take away for the visitor, from the installation Untitled (Blue Placebo), (1991) by Felix Gonzalez-Torres



Inverted Birth; The Gift

I rarely connect with contemporary art; my usual reaction to it is ‘wth’ instead of ‘wow’.  Sometimes, maybe, the accompanying text helps in conveying the message and eliciting appreciation.   

But the themes of the two exhibitions currently running at the DHC/ART Foundation for Contemporary Art resonated with me.  

The message of Bill Viola’s video art presentation Naissance a rebours was parallel to my own current retrospective phase of the stages of my life.  Besides the message in the videos, the graphics of some of them made me go ‘wow’.

Inverted Birth (2014) was a visual treat. I saw the 8 minute video twice trying to figure out how the fluids – mud, blood, milk, and water, representing different stages of life – were ‘layered’ in such a way that each layer was a separate and distinct entity, retaining its own colour and viscosity, as it rose away from the layer beneath it. Even the air was a clearly defined layer depicted by the ripples it created as it blew across the dry clothes of the performer. The graduation from darkness to light occurred simultaneously during these stages, adding to the complexity of the fascinating watch.  

In Ascension (2000), the sudden plunge that ripped through the still water caught me unawares, so I had to watch the video again to enjoy the thrill of it.  I loved the multi-sensory depiction of being suspended under water: the diffused sunlight, the muffled roar, the frenzied bubbles, and the lightness and timelessness of being. Ascension took me back to my dream-like trip of diving and floating in the green sinkhole pools of Chota Chootuk in Balochistan.

Exchanging gifts – both giving and receiving them from family and friends – is an expression of love for me that deepens bonds, so I loved the concept of L’Offre, which is most beautifully described by the curator Cheryl Sim in the catalog essay.  

Pearls (1999- )is an ongoing project in which Simryn Gill asks her friends to give her one of their books. She crafts ‘pearls’ from the pages of the book, and gifts the pearls strings to them. No two sets of the pearls she makes meticulously are alike, like no two fingerprints are alike. In return the friends give her photographs in which they are wearing the pearls, which she in turn displays in exhibitions, creating an intricately interconnected circle of giving and receiving gifts.  I wouldn’t mind receiving a priceless gift like the Pearls.

Money for Art (1994 -2010) was another long-term project spanning 16 years, in which Lee Mingwei made origami sculptures made of ten dollar bills and gifted them to people in exchange for a follow-up of what they would do with the origami-money. The follow-up photographs are a study of human nature and circumstance. If I would have received this gift, I would have framed it.

I walked away after seeing the third photo in the free fotolab (2009) slideshow by Phil Collins. Even though the rights of those personal photographs had been  given to the artist in exchange for developing them for free, seeing the too-personal moments of strangers felt like an invasion of their privacy.  In this case the gift seemed like one of those exchanges where people in need barter their body or soul for some favour.    

In Mike Kelly’s Love, Theft, Gifting and more Love (2009), the original artwork for the book cover was compelling, but the series of events leading to the tattoo on his girlfriend’s chest was disturbing. I felt the tattoo was some kind of atonement for inadvertently buying the stolen artwork T-shirt from a thrift shop. Ironically, the gift decals made by the artist of a dagger piercing Love’s heart are perfect for been-there-done-that T-shirts.

Untitled (NRA),(1991) by Felix Gonzalez-Torres is a stack of offset prints for the public to take, a literal work of public art. I took one print for myself, and passed it on to my daughter to put up in her dorm. I loved receiving the gift from the artist and the museum; I loved gifting it to my daughter; and she loved receiving it from me; and this passage of gifts was the essence of L’Offre.