Tuesday, 5 March 2019

Dhaba Tales

Eating at dhabas is a pretty good idea because the food is finger-licking delicious, the service is usually as quick as that of any fast food place, and the bill is usually so low you have to check twice to make sure you’ve seen it right.

Making dhabas gender-based places is not a good idea at all. Because why should one gender be deprived of this delicious option? And instead have to waste a precious part of life dressing up to go to some fastidious place that serves OK food eons after the order has been placed and then charges an arm for it, piling injury on top of insult. 

Dhabas should be open to all. All dhabas should be open to all.

For a very long time, the Afghani dhaba Al Madina at Al Asif Square in Sohrab Goth would be vetoed for a visit by our group of friends because it was thought to be unsafe for the female gender. Because perhaps the men there might not be too used to seeing women at the dhaba and would not know how to behave with them? The only solution for this was to go to the dhaba and give them some exposure. 

So after a lot of hesitation from one side and some strong-arming from the other, we agreed to head out to Al Madina for a taste of Afghani dhaba food. For the record, we women drove there ourselves, all the way up to Sohrab Goth.

When we reached the place, the menfolk entered into a concerned strategizing meeting to discuss how to keep their female friends safe. A male-only unit went in to reconnoiter and assess the safety situation for us, whilst some of our friends stood around us in a protective circle. After getting an all-clear, we were finally taken in a cordon inside The Men Only Den. 

Inside the dhaba compound, we discovered a mini-neighbouring country with shops selling niswaar, heavy-duty plastic slippers, watercoolers, megaphones, ropes, and checkered scarves.

We were led inside a ‘family hall’ that was surprisingly quite clean and pleasantly done up, with red curtains serving as room dividers and red rugs laid out on the raised, cemented baithak. Two other ‘families’ (this is a term that means there are some women in the group) were already there, so the presence of women was not such an unusual occurrence after all.

The owners and waiters were quite excited to see us, a big ‘family’ group - who wouldn’t want more customers and more namkeen boti orders? The waiters were the same men who wait on tables at any regular food outlet anywhere in Karachi; it did not look as if at Al Madina they would morph into monsters. They behaved in the same polite and efficient manner as the waiters at any other restaurant.



  

 









The food was delightful: rosh, namkeen boti, shorba, and Afghani pulao, accompanied by naan, fresh salad, and raita and finished off with cardamom mint tea served with sugar balls, almonds and candy.

Someone asked for paan out of the blue, and just as we were thinking how there could be paan at an Afghani joint, the waiter whipped one out – his own personal paan – from his pocket and offered it to us. Well, that was the level of service we received.

To add to the pleasant surprise, the bill came to an unbelievably low amount.

It was a small meal for us women (ok, maybe not so small) and a giant leap for womankind - to break the glass ceiling by breaking bread in a women’s no-go area. 

Do try out such places with your families – in suitable attire, of course - not only for some great food, but also to make your country and countrymen normal and safe places and people.

Monday, 12 March 2018

Ceramic Stories: The Meraki Collection



Meraki (Greek):  doing something with soul, creativity, or love; putting something of yourself into your work.


Humna Mustafa is a ceramist who narrates stories in a unique way: she depicts human stories through henna patterns inscribed on ceramic objects.  

This unique art form emerged when her fascination with people and their stories, her love for henna designs and their symbolism, and her keen love for pottery amalgamated into one creation. It felt right bringing these ancient crafts together in the form of her ceramics collection.  

‘I have a passion for creating patterns, inspired mostly by Islamic Art, on ceramics, paper, silk, wood, human body, walls and any other possible canvas.

Making individual art pieces and beautified hand-crafted objects, to bring a smile to someone, is my goal in life.’


Her inspiration for her craft is her family and religion; living in Pakistan, Australia and the UK; her travels across cultures; and her interactions with people sans any kind of borders, so the palette is a mix of vibrant and pastel colours, and the patterns include Islamic art symmetry, William Morris florals, and the dots of Aboriginal art.

In Humna’s Meraki Collection, every piece is a solo story with an individual pattern and a unique colour combination, never to be copied or repeated again - like fingerprints. Her interactions with people are imprinted in this collection: their feelings are the colour, their stories are the patterns.

As a child, Humna would hear her father say, ‘The only reason people earn is to put food on the table for their loved ones. Food brings and keeps families together.’ The Meraki Collection honors the effort people make to put food on the table for their families.  The collection consists of decorative chutney bowls, cereal bowls, salad bowls, and chai beakers.  Humna wants her pieces to be used in everyday life instead of only looking pretty. She wants the owners of the pieces to hold them to feel the connection and experience the stories she has poured into them, just like a handshake.




‘I believe all objects contain an energy that embodies a feeling. Each piece in this collection captures an essence, with references to moments that inspired me.’

Each piece also holds a secret: it hides an imperfection in the patterns. It may look perfect, just like we pretend to be perfect, but the imperfections do exist. Humna chooses to celebrate these imperfections in her pieces, in herself, and in the people around her.
  
The henna patterns are both decorative and symbolic. Leaves depict a desire to grow internally, to nurture the nature existing within us.  The dots signify endless and limitless possibilities to grow and evolve in any way and any direction we desire – ‘unginnat’ possibilities, as the artist terms it. The arches denote the ‘mehrab’ of mosques and show Humna’s close affiliation with her spirituality and culture.



‘Family of Six’ is a set of chutney bowls inspired by Humna’s family of parents and siblings. The bowls share similarities and differences in their shape, size, colours and patterns, just like her family members are different and yet the same.  Each piece is intricately worked with borders, leaves and dots in different colours, showing the family members’ interconnection, growth and trajectory. 



‘Solo Stories’ are narrated in pairs of chai beakers and chutney, cereal, and salad bowls.  They are about the people she has met in her local and foreign stays and travels and in her personal and work experiences. Working with people for up to fifteen hours in intricate mehndi applications created stories and connections that she has re-created in these pieces. Some patterns , like the people she met, are wild and free, spreading outwardly, while some are inward-looking and stream-lined.  

‘The chai beakers are an ode to our chai culture where people form connections whilst cradling endless cups of chai. I made these beakers without handles so that they can be held close, to feel the vibes.’

‘Time’ is a set of six extremely detailed cereal bowls done in blue. The bowls record her evolution from the time she left home for her studies to the present time after the birth of her daughter. They chart the various stages of her journey – being engrained with the tenets of her culture and religion; breaking free of the moulds in which she grew; blooming in her own right and exploring a new country and culture and people; facing racism and negativity post 9/11; understanding and accepting her own identity; and embracing differences.  In the last piece speckled with dots she finally finds her place as things fall into place. There are ‘unginnat’ possibilities and opportunities to grow in any direction; nothing is written in stone.

‘Every time and place changes us to make us a different person. It is important to give yourself the time to evolve and become what you are capable of becoming.’

All the pieces are a reflection and an acknowledgement of Humna’s feelings towards her parents. (Blue is her father’s favourite colour, and her love for patterns is inherited from her mother who used to sketch floral patterns in books and papers, which Humna would collect as mementos.)

In The Meraki Collection, Humna has poured her soul into the moulds, using patterns instead of words to narrate the stories of people she has met.  

‘All our stories are similar. We may think we have a unique path, but at the core of our being we are all connected and the same. We tend to not share our stories because we are afraid of being judged for our choices, but we end up locking ourselves away. If we open up, we will encourage others to open up too, and that is how we will find the connections.  In my ceramic pieces, you will naturally be attracted to the piece whose story is similar to yours. You will have found a connection.’




Humna is a Textile Print Design graduate of Indus Valley School of Arts. 

Thursday, 16 November 2017

How to spend a weekend and love it

PC: Saifuddin Abbas

1.    Pack your bags the night before, inform family and friends about your plans, and in the early hours of Saturday morning, drive down the N10 (Makran Coastal Highway) in Balochistan to Hingol National Park (a 260 km and 4-hour drive away from Karachi), one of the largest national parks of Pakistan. Here you will find mud volcanoes, the Kund Malir beach, Nani Mandir and the Buzi Pass.









PC: Ali Waseem
PC: Ali Waseem










      
      2.  Make a detour to the left, approximately 40 km before Hingol River. Follow the dirt track for a few kilometres to see and possibly climb the 300 foot high Chandragupt, said to be the worlds largest and highest active mud volcano. Keep a tight foothold when you climb up the steep volcano face as you can easily be blown away by the strong winds or slip if the soft mud gives way.  Go into a trance at the sight of viscous mud bubbling and oozing out of the crater in a hypnotic flow and streaming down the volcano.  Sit at the craters edge for an awe-inspiring birds eye view of the mud-crafted Hingol plains, virgin beaches and glimmering blue water. If you are lucky you may even catch a group of pilgrims perform their rituals at the crater. 

PC: Ali Waseem

3.     When you reach Hingol, use the restroom facilities and drop off your overnight luggage at the rest house/information centre/museum located a few kilometers away from Nani Mandir.  (You need to pre-book the rooms here to use the facility).  

4.     Drive down to Nani Mandir at Hinglaj. Soak in the unique rock formation. The hills look like an army of thousands of soldiers standing at attention.  

5.     At the Mandir, check out the holy relics and ceremonial objects set inside cave and spread around the area, including graffiti, figurines and vermillion string knots in trees.  

PC: Ali Waseem
PC: Ali Waseem
  
6.     Trek to the top of any of the numerous cliffs to improve your rock climbing skills.  Be careful though, as most of the terrain is solidified mud that can give way any moment.

PC: Niaz Shahmir
PC: Niaz Shahmir

PC: Saifuddin Abbas

7.     Afterwards, get a relaxing fish pedicure in the cool waters of any of the several oases that have seeped up from an underwater stream.

PC: Lauren Xavier

8.     Stop at the bridge to catch the sunset over the valley between the mountains.

PC: Niaz Shahmir
PC: Niaz Shahmir

9.     Make a stopover for a cup of chai and some daal and sabzi with hot naan at the roadside dhaba near the bridge.  


PC: Saifuddin Abbas

10.  Head back to the guesthouse and after dark climb up to the 360* viewing point to see the lights glimmering in the darkness.

11.  Set up camp under the night sky and see it raining stars so profusely that not a speck of sky can be seen.

12.  Wake up early morning to see the sun rise over the valley.

PC: Ahsan Qadir

13.  Head to a deserted beach. Sadly most of the once pristine beach strip is no more, because of irresponsible tourists. If you can find a relatively clean spot, swim in the sea, sun and sand till your heart is content.


14.  Stop at the fishing village to see boats bobbing at leisure, and sailors and seagulls waiting for the loads of fresh catch coming in.  

15.  Marvel at the diverse topography and landforms found within this small area: the Hingol River, patches of dry river bed and its estuary; the underground streams and pools; the plateaus, mountains and mud volcanoes; the date palms and sand dunes in the flat plains; the powder beaches and blue seas of Kund Malir, and the fascinating rock formations chiseled by the winds that include ‘Princess of Hope’ and the ‘Sphinx. The views from Buzi Pass are especially spectacular; every turn on the steep Pass will reveal magnificent landscapes and seascapes that will make you exclaim.  The patterns in the towering mountains showing every prehistoric layer of formation are a geological wonder.


16.  Spot any of the wide variety of resident and migratory bird, animal and fish species in Hingol National Park (home to at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds.) Keep a look out for the famous crocodiles of the Hingol River and the iconic ibex, urial and chinkara gazelle. Other animal species include leopard, fox,  hyena,  jackal,  badger, pangolin,  porcupine,   mongoose,Houbara bustard,  pelican, eagle,   vulture, owl, dolphin and giant sea turtle.

PC: Zahid Younus Habib

17.  Fill up on the deep fried tiny fish served straight out of the karhai with piping hot naan. Dont forget to sprinkle the fish liberally with lemon and chaat masala.

18.  Head back home refreshed and rejuvenated.


*You will need:
-Camping gear including tent, torch and emergency kit
-Joggers/hiking boots
-Sunblock, sunglasses and sun cap
-Garbage bags for your trash
-Enough food and water to last you the weekend, though there are small shops nearby selling bare necessities.
-Swim wear
-Your documents and ID for security checks. 
* This itinerary is subject to your time management and stamina
* Mid-October to mid-March is the best time to go. 
* DO NOT LITTER


Monday, 13 November 2017

This Bag!

At Mount Royal Park

 This Bag!

I’d been looking for a long time for a one-stop bag for my travel, sport, work, social and leisure outdoor activities: camping in Balochistan; walking at Seaview; cycling around Phase 8; eating out at a dhaba on Burns Road; shopping for antiques at Itwar Bazaar; hiking up mud volcanoes; driving down to the beach; hanging out with friends for coffee; going on assignment for an interview; meeting a client or supplier at a site; and generally going out and about town. Something that could take me places, from jogging in Hilal Park to shopping at Dolmen Mall, and also look good.   

And then I found this bag! It’s by Roots of Canada, and the team or person that designed this bag either lives my kind of life, or has some link to inside my mind. Because it has exactly everything that I had wanted in a bag; an all-in-one bag that is durable, comfortable, functional and aesthetical. It’s got all the ticks on my checklist:  
  • A neutral and versatile colour and style that can go with most outfits and occasions, from sporty to street-style-casual-daytime.  The vibrant blue is neutral and yet not dull or boring.  
  • Looks good hanging by my side in photos (because tired of bleh bags photobombing my travel pics)
  • Water, stain and various gunk-proof material for roughing it out. I can wipe clean anything that does stick to it and not have to worry about treating it with kid gloves like branded bag babies.  The bag takes care of my needs and not vice versa.
  • Metal feet for gunk protection
  • A wide, comfortable, flexible crossbody strap that adjusts itself to movement and turning and twisting, an important mechanism when I am in the middle of something like cycling or climbing up a mountain and can’t use my hands to adjust the bag.
  • Carrying handles in case I want to remove or not use the adjustable shoulder strap.
  • 3 inner and 3 outer pockets for lots of storage, easy organization and quick access for those things that get lost in my bag when I need them urgently, such as lip-gloss, sunblock, cellphone, notebook, wallet, coins, keys, trail mix, wet wipes, medicine, and sunglasses.
  • Zippers for all the outside pockets and the main body so things don’t fall out when I’m rushing at the airport or pick-pocketed when I’m pre-occupied in bargaining at a flea-market.
  • Hooks on the sides for hanging any extra items like sun cap, keychain etc.
  • Big enough to hold all essential gear and accessories like cap, sunglasses, and water bottle, and small enough to not become bulky weight.

 Now when I go to Keamari for fried fish with friends, I can carry all my essentials, not have to worry about the bag and its contents if I get my fingers messy with masala or it starts raining, and still look good. This bag has got me covered.

A big Thanks to the designers at Roots! I give it a 10/10. 


Hiking at Mount Royal Park

Sunday, 5 November 2017

Connecting with Contemporary Art



A gift to take away for the visitor, from the installation Untitled (Blue Placebo), (1991) by Felix Gonzalez-Torres



Inverted Birth; The Gift

I rarely connect with contemporary art; my usual reaction to it is ‘wth’ instead of ‘wow’.  Sometimes, maybe, the accompanying text helps in conveying the message and eliciting appreciation.   

But the themes of the two exhibitions currently running at the DHC/ART Foundation for Contemporary Art resonated with me.  

The message of Bill Viola’s video art presentation Naissance a rebours was parallel to my own current retrospective phase of the stages of my life.  Besides the message in the videos, the graphics of some of them made me go ‘wow’.

Inverted Birth (2014) was a visual treat. I saw the 8 minute video twice trying to figure out how the fluids – mud, blood, milk, and water, representing different stages of life – were ‘layered’ in such a way that each layer was a separate and distinct entity, retaining its own colour and viscosity, as it rose away from the layer beneath it. Even the air was a clearly defined layer depicted by the ripples it created as it blew across the dry clothes of the performer. The graduation from darkness to light occurred simultaneously during these stages, adding to the complexity of the fascinating watch.  

In Ascension (2000), the sudden plunge that ripped through the still water caught me unawares, so I had to watch the video again to enjoy the thrill of it.  I loved the multi-sensory depiction of being suspended under water: the diffused sunlight, the muffled roar, the frenzied bubbles, and the lightness and timelessness of being. Ascension took me back to my dream-like trip of diving and floating in the green sinkhole pools of Chota Chootuk in Balochistan.

Exchanging gifts – both giving and receiving them from family and friends – is an expression of love for me that deepens bonds, so I loved the concept of L’Offre, which is most beautifully described by the curator Cheryl Sim in the catalog essay.  

Pearls (1999- )is an ongoing project in which Simryn Gill asks her friends to give her one of their books. She crafts ‘pearls’ from the pages of the book, and gifts the pearls strings to them. No two sets of the pearls she makes meticulously are alike, like no two fingerprints are alike. In return the friends give her photographs in which they are wearing the pearls, which she in turn displays in exhibitions, creating an intricately interconnected circle of giving and receiving gifts.  I wouldn’t mind receiving a priceless gift like the Pearls.

Money for Art (1994 -2010) was another long-term project spanning 16 years, in which Lee Mingwei made origami sculptures made of ten dollar bills and gifted them to people in exchange for a follow-up of what they would do with the origami-money. The follow-up photographs are a study of human nature and circumstance. If I would have received this gift, I would have framed it.

I walked away after seeing the third photo in the free fotolab (2009) slideshow by Phil Collins. Even though the rights of those personal photographs had been  given to the artist in exchange for developing them for free, seeing the too-personal moments of strangers felt like an invasion of their privacy.  In this case the gift seemed like one of those exchanges where people in need barter their body or soul for some favour.    

In Mike Kelly’s Love, Theft, Gifting and more Love (2009), the original artwork for the book cover was compelling, but the series of events leading to the tattoo on his girlfriend’s chest was disturbing. I felt the tattoo was some kind of atonement for inadvertently buying the stolen artwork T-shirt from a thrift shop. Ironically, the gift decals made by the artist of a dagger piercing Love’s heart are perfect for been-there-done-that T-shirts.

Untitled (NRA),(1991) by Felix Gonzalez-Torres is a stack of offset prints for the public to take, a literal work of public art. I took one print for myself, and passed it on to my daughter to put up in her dorm. I loved receiving the gift from the artist and the museum; I loved gifting it to my daughter; and she loved receiving it from me; and this passage of gifts was the essence of L’Offre.


Sunday, 5 June 2016

30 Day Meal Plan for Ramzan

 For me, the difficult question Aaj khanay mein kiya pakaoon? is never tougher than in Ramzan, on an empty stomach, and when the need for delivering a filling and nutritious meal for my family is crucial.

I need to lure and reward the children especially, after a full day of abstinence, with a feast that will motivate them, replenish lost nutrition and recharge them for the next days fast.  

With several years of trial and error, Ive been fine-tuning a 30 day meal plan based on one drink, one iftari item and one meal item for the family. Theres no need to makes dozens of items every day. This is more than filling enough, and easier on the stomach and the pocket. And also on my brainpower and the cooking ladys (wo)manpower.  

Now I can be prepared with recipes and ingredients, and also have enough time to rest and pray.

Feel free to use this for your convenience! And share your meal plans too!

Point-to-note: this isnt a nutritionists meal plan; its a mummys meal plan for her bachas and includes their favourite foods.

If you havent made something before then its best to try it out from before to avoid last-minute panic and disappointment.

You can also order any of these from the several home-based food suppliers and caterers, including frozen foods that you can use at your convenience.

Drinks can be made more interesting by adding a dash of lemon, ginger, mint or yogurt where possible.

Needless to say, keep a side of fruits and vegetables for a balanced diet and good digestion.

Sehri items dont need too much planning, with staples like parathas, eggs, shami kababs, mangoes, bananas, dates, yogurt and muesli.


DRINK
IFTARI ITEM
MEAL
Day 1
Rooh Afza with basil seeds and lime
Fruit chaat
Aloo qeema
Day 2
Mango milk shake
Chicken sesame strips
Dal chawal, bhindi  jalfrezi, kachumar
Day 3
Apple, carrot, ginger and lime juice
Humus and pita platter
Rotisserie chicken, potato wedges
Day 4
Banana and mango smoothie
Sweet and savoury crepes
Lasagne
Day 5
Date and dry fruit shake
Dahi baray
Mutton karhai
Day 6
Ice cream soda
Fruit trifle
Pizza, chicken cutlets
Day 7
Sweet and salty lassi
Assorted pakoras
Bhunnay beef pasanday, aloo tarkari
Day 8
Falsa juice
Channa chaat
Aloo anda curry, zeera rice
Day 9
Limopani
Assorted samosas
Chicken ginger
Day 10
Lychee lime
Chicken corn soup
Beef chilli dry, chicken Szechuan, rice/chow mein
Day 11
Sattu drink
Aloo bonday
Mutton achar gosht
Day 12
Coconut water
Chicken samosas
Biryani
Day 13
Banana milkshake
Tuna salad
Wraps, potato and sweet potato wedges
Day 14
Shikanjbeen
Dahi phulki
Haleem
Day 15
Ginger lemonade
Aloo chaat
Chicken  karhai
Day 16
Zaafrani doodh
Bhel/sev puri
Arvi gosht
Day 17
Sugarcane juice
Beans sprout chaat
Chicken tikka, seekh kabab
Day 18
Dried apricot drink
Fruit skewers
Chapli kabab, kabuli pulao
Day 19
Chikoo shake
Baked stuffed potatoes
Chicken roast, steamed vegetables
Day 20
Watermelon sorbet
Lentil soup and fatoush
Chullo kabab, saffron rice
Day 21
Zaljira (cumin, tamarind, ginger juice)
Assorted vegetable tempura
Aloo gosht
Day 22
Kiwi cooler
Chicken sesame strips
Khao suey
Day 23
Chocolate malt
Greens salad
Burgers and french fries
Day 24
Thandai
Fruit cocktail
Green chicken, peas pulao
Day 25
Zeera lassi
Kachori
Galawat kabab
Day 26
Tamarind juice
Fruit and yogurt parfait
Chicken shashlik
Day 27
Mango lassi
Corn chaat
Nargisi koftay
Day 28
Cucumber lemonade
Aloo qeema cutlets
Club sandwiches
Day 29
Ayran (salted lassi with garlic)
Falafel/ lentil pakoras
Yakhni pulao
Day 30
Plum juice
Couscous/ quinoa salad
Chicken or beef steaks, roasted vegetable skewers